翻刻!料理本の世界

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料理沿革大概/懐石四季の友 - 翻刻

料理沿革大概/懐石四季の友 - ページ 5

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翻刻

                  四  ば二種は厚味三種は淡味に仕なすこと心を付へし魚鳥の  肉すきたらんも又塩梅の㫖すきたるももたれてあしく  料理の出来はへもなかるへし 一塩梅のことは甘きも辛も物品によるへし第一に魚鳥の出所  新鮮肉類のあふりの調りたるを吟味すへし野菜も同  しことなり心なき人は鯛といへとも出所をしらす鯛と覚  へ鴨といへはみな鴨と田舎松茸も西京本場の松茸一つ  に心得る等なり 一数奇の茶事にては膳部を出すを懐石といふ懐石は禅  林にて薬石といふに同し温石を懐にして腹を温むる心  なるへし禅林に小食夜食なと薬石とも點心と云ふも  同し薬石懐石は温石の心なるへし會席とは一座の事也 【左丁】  懐石とこそ各へけれ會席を食すると云ふへき事なし  茶會の饗膳何れにも軽くすることなり真に點心のほ  との事なるゆへの唱なるへし 一書院にて振舞の饗膳には調味盛り方にも式法ありて  夫々古實あるなり     献立の部 一諸禮方品々法式ありといへとも之をのせす唯料理取合  の大畧又後に所謂部立呼はん為のみ 一春三汁十飣 《割書:貴人奉饗 御口取 御座篇 酒茶|饗膳 菓子及後叚晩食》 一夏二汁五飣 《割書:普通之饗應之大畧祝儀婚礼|等の礼儀に拘る㕝者載せす》 一秋一汁五飣 《割書:平人之振舞右の畧》 一冬一汁三飣 《割書:茶事之饗應此畧は数多あるへし》

現代語訳

四  ば二種は厚味、三種は淡味に仕立てることに心を付けるべし。魚鳥の  肉が過ぎたるも、また塩梅の旨味が過ぎたるも、もたれて悪く、  料理の出来映えもなかるべし。 一、塩梅のことは、甘きも辛きも物品によるべし。第一に魚鳥の出所、  新鮮、肉類の脂の乗り具合の調ったるを吟味すべし。野菜も同  じことなり。心なき人は鯛といえども出所を知らず鯛と覚え、  鴨といえば皆鴨と、田舎松茸も西京本場の松茸一つ  に心得る等なり。 一、数寄の茶事にては膳部を出すを懐石という。懐石は禅  林にて薬石というに同じ。温石を懐にして腹を温める心  なるべし。禅林に小食・夜食など薬石とも点心と言うも  同じ。薬石・懐石は温石の心なるべし。会席とは一座の事なり。 【左丁】  懐石とこそ覚えるべけれ。会席を食すると言うべき事なし。  茶会の饗膳、いずれにも軽くすることなり。真に点心のほど  の事なるゆえの唱えなるべし。 一、書院にて振る舞いの饗膳には調味・盛り方にも式法ありて、  それぞれ古実あるなり。     献立の部 一、諸礼方品々法式ありといえども、これを載せず。ただ料理取り合わせ  の大略、また後に所謂部立と呼ばんがためのみ。 一、春三汁十飯 (貴人奉饗 御口取 御座編 酒茶 饗膳 菓子及び後段晩食) 一、夏二汁五飯 (普通の饗応の大略 祝儀婚礼等の礼儀に拘る者は載せず) 一、秋一汁五飯 (平人の振る舞い 右の略) 一、冬一汁三飯 (茶事の饗応 この略は数多あるべし)

英語訳

Four ...then two kinds should be prepared with rich flavor, and three kinds with mild flavor - attention should be paid to this. If fish and fowl meat is excessive, or if the seasoning flavor is excessive, it will be heavy and unpleasant, and the appearance of the cuisine will also be poor. 1. Regarding seasoning, both sweet and salty should depend on the ingredients. First and foremost, one should carefully examine the source of fish and fowl, their freshness, and the proper balance of fat in meats. The same applies to vegetables. Thoughtless people, even with sea bream, do not know its source and simply think "sea bream is sea bream," and with duck, think "all duck is the same," or consider country matsutake mushrooms the same as genuine Kyoto matsutake. 1. In refined tea gatherings, serving the meal courses is called "kaiseki." Kaiseki is the same as what Zen monasteries call "yakuseki" (medicinal stones). It should be the spirit of warming the belly by holding warm stones to one's bosom. In Zen monasteries, light meals and evening meals are called both yakuseki and tenshin (light refreshments) with the same meaning. Both yakuseki and kaiseki should have the spirit of warm stones. "Kaiseki" refers to a gathering. 【Left Page】 It should be understood as "kaiseki." There is no such thing as "eating kaiseki." Tea gathering banquets should all be kept light. This naming truly comes from it being merely the extent of light refreshments. 1. For banquets served in formal reception rooms, there are prescribed methods for seasoning and presentation, each with their ancient practices.     Menu Section 1. Although there are various formalities and methods for ceremonial etiquette, these are not included here. This is only for the general outline of food combinations and for what will later be called "course organization." 1. Spring: Three soups, ten rice dishes (For entertaining noble guests: appetizers, main seating course, sake and tea, banquet meals, sweets and later evening meals) 1. Summer: Two soups, five rice dishes (General outline of ordinary hospitality; those bound by ceremonial etiquette for celebrations, weddings, etc. are not included) 1. Autumn: One soup, five rice dishes (Entertainment for commoners; abbreviated version of the above) 1. Winter: One soup, three rice dishes (Tea ceremony hospitality; there should be many variations of this abbreviated form)